Posted by aimeeclimbs on 10 February 2013
Officially Back!
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That’s right, I’m officially back to pre-baby climbing.  I finally sent my first post-baby 5.13.  I didn’t manage to beat my previous record of 10 months post-baby, but I did send a particularly difficult 5.13a (according to popular opinion).  I climbed Taco Chips at Smith Rock.  This particular route starts off super crimpy with a big rest before you finish on a 12c section.  I was so afraid I would “punt” on the 12c part and have to do the start again, but somehow I managed to make it through.  The worst part was before sending I took a horrible fall at the crux where the rope was behind my leg and I flipped over backward.  Fortunately, with Kyle’s help, I figured out what I did wrong and managed to avoid doing it again.  The fall at the crux still isn’t fun, but at least I only had to take it once after that!  I’m thankful for Kyle being a most excellent belayer and helping me work out the beta.  He also went out to belay me despite not having any projects at the same area.  And last but not least, he has been helping me train and keep me motivated to work hard and get strong.  I also want to thank Nathan Gerhardt for taking these killer shots of me and Stonewear Designs for outfitting me.  It feels great to be climbing strong again.  Soon we are headed to Red Rocks so I can try my project there again.  In the meantime, here’s some shots of Taco Chips by Nathan Gerhardt.

Starting the crux section (wearing Stonewear pants and Momentum tank)

Starting the crux section (wearing Stonewear pants and Momentum tank)

 

Typical Smith Rock flag

Typical Smith Rock Flag

My own beta for reaching the jug at the end of the crux

My own beta for reaching the jug at the end of the crux

Clipping at the start of the upper crux

Clipping at the start of the upper crux

 

7 Comments
  1. Elyse Sokoloff on 2-11-2013

    What the hell are you holding onto with your left hand as you reach for the jug? It looks like you’re pinching the tiniest of nubbins!

  2. Cragmama on 2-11-2013

    Awesome Aimee! One down, 12 more to go? ;) Your beta in that second to last shot is crazy! Nice work, I’m sure it feels good to be “back.”

    • aimeeclimbs on 2-11-2013

      I wish! My husband and I calculated it, and it seems mathematically impossible to do 13, but that doesn’t mean I won’t try! Fingers crossed for #2 next week in vegas.

  3. Rock_Princess on 2-12-2013

    Neato Betas Amy! Nice work!

    Time to do Darkness at Noon.

    _palo

    • aimeeclimbs on 2-12-2013

      Or oxygen. I finally did all the moves on it!

  4. Rock_Princess on 2-12-2013

    Neato Betas Aimee! Nice work!

    Time to do Darkness at Noon.

    _palo

  5. Amelia on 2-13-2013

    You are amazing!!!

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